Lochnagar: The White Mounth 5
- robsthomson
- Apr 14, 2019
- 5 min read
Updated: Apr 25, 2019
After being blown off An' Caisteal and thwarted by closed snow gates in recent weeks I was raring to get back. What a challenge I returned to.
On this occasion I was joined by my Brother-in-Law on an overnight camp and traverse of The White Mounth 5. As a keen climber, snowboarder and general thrill seeker I was dubious the Munros would hold the sense of excitement he was used to so I thought I'd compensate by giving him a sense of achievement through endurance. As an elite martial artist and founder of his own Kuk Sool Wan school in Perth (link for details) his fitness was in no doubt. Mine's on the other hand is a always at the forefront of my mind when planning as it's always a doubt!
The White Mounth plateau is an extensive walk taking in 5 Munro summits over 18.5 miles. It is a very exposed route in places surrounded as it is by a vast Tundra-like expanse.
We arrived at Glen Muick Car Park around 3pm and set off immediately. Encouraged by the warm spring sunshine and good trail conditions we decided to get a good few hours of the walk under our belt and seek out a camp spot en-route rather than plan one in advance.
Subitam Commutationem........ well, almost.
Rounding the base of Meikle Pap at just over 2900 feet we were almost at Munro height Status already. The sun was setting, we had hit the snow line and the wind had picked up considerably. The landscape changed from a warm sepia-like filter to a foreboding mono chromed one as the last of the warm light slipped behind Lochnagar. The last part of Byron's poem was circling in my mind as the elements stepped up their fight.
Round Lochnagar while the stormy mist gathers, Winter presides in his cold icy car. Clouds there encircle the forms of my fathers; They dwell in the tempests of dark Lochnagar
Detouring slightly off the trail we decided the area between Eagle/Central Ridge and The West Buttress was as sheltered as we would get and agreed it was a fall back point if no camp spot could be found farther on. As darkness was a few hours off we pressed on towards the summit of Lochnagar. After a short but steep climb of around 20 minutes we reached the expansive plateau and were met with strong but manageable winds. What left us in no doubt as to retreating was the the gusts which were picking up to around 60 mph.
It was galling to descend again knowing we would have to reascend in the morning but we also knew it was the safest, and therefore the correct decision.
It was cold.
Our water had began to freeze in our bottles and the forecast was now showing as -4 degrees with a windchill of -14 and although we had chosen a decent spot to set up it was still blustery. A small fire, a warm meal and few drams certainly took the edge off it but as darkness took over we turned in for a cold night and little sleep.
The following morning we set off at 6.30am - an hour later than planned but the sheer cold took the spring out of our morning steps. Retracing our path immediately I knew this was going to be a tough day so I decided to go positive all the way (or as much as I could manage). At this stage these positive thoughts took the following forms: 1) Good company and banter with Richard who clearly knew his stuff in most outdoor environments 2) It was good to be walking and on the move 3) As we walked it became increasingly clear that we had made the best choice to turn back last night 4) we would be on the summit of Lochnagar at 3379 feet by 8am on a Sunday morning and 5) we would be smashing 5 Munros today!
Shit. 5 Munros.
5 Munros in freezing conditions.
5 Munros in freezing conditions and biting wind.
5 Munros in freezing conditions, biting wind and carrying a full camp pack.
As these thoughts took over I reverted to my default safety mindset and spent a long time planning my evening meal and choice of beverage. I had a huge range to choose from and the food centered around hot and spicy and the beverage options were from a broad range of cold, fizzy and alcoholic.
Although I am very reluctant to assume, let alone write about someone else's thoughts and experiences, my sense was that Richard initially had doubts over the days enterprise. Gladly, my expectation of him came to fruition as he grew into the challenge. The harder it got the more he got into it and once we had some pretty decent miles and a few summits under our belt the sense of satisfaction grew, especially in light of the tough conditions. This assertion is of course through my eyes but I do hope I have the rights of it. Bagging Munros wasn't quite his bag but battling the elements and racking up some hard miles was more up his rope.
On the 22nd November 1956, a Canberra Aircraft attached to 35 Squadron left RAF Upwood in Cambridgeshire destined for RAF Kinloss on the Moray Firth. On a clear night in good conditions it crashed into Carn an t-Sagairt Mor, our 3rd Munro of the day where remnants of the aircraft can still be found strewn across a vast area.
I often read of Munro's 'graded' on their various attributes (toughness, technicality, beauty and so on). I don't really have an issue with this but can never relate to those who classify one walk over another because of the scenery, or vistas, or views, or panoramas. Certainly, there are some more breathtaking than others but to classify them by this means for me is simply looking in the wrong place or viewing them in the wrong way.
Perhaps Rhinos are less attractive to look at than Bengal Tigers but there is still a lot to be admired in a Rhino and the comparison is unfair. This walk was a Rhino.
As walks go this one had a lot to it, it was tough but was fairly uneventful too. For the large part conversation was minimal as eating up the miles and facing biting winds became the order of the day. It is a landscape of dark and desolate beauty and in that largely featureless terrain, with relatively few points of interest to look at, you find yourself looking a little more inwards and therein you find the resolve and determination to finish.
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