Ben Lawers (almost) & Beinn Ghlas 1

Beaten by The Ben

Treacherous - running water under frozen ice on Ben Lawers

An early start saw me arrive at the National Trust Car Park at 7.30am. There was a damp chill in the air but a watery spring sun was splitting the sky and only a light cloud skimmed the tops of surrounding hills.

At just 17ft short of 4000ft, Ben Lawers is the heighest peak in Southern Scotland and the 10th highest in total. It has the added attraction of including another Munro Top as you summit Beinn Ghlas at 3600ft en-route to the mighty Lawers summit.

The early part of the route takes you along well maintained path threading a route through the National Trust Nature Reserve. Containing over 500 rare and endangered Artic and Alpine species of flora and fauna, it a the most wonderful start to a walk.

The path remains relatively well maintained and after around 30 minutes of steady climbing the real work starts, becoming more rocky as it snakes it's way towards the summit of Beinn Ghlas. The cloud was drawing in and the wind picking up but I could still make out the peak of Meall Corranaich to my left. A climb over a final shoulder and I was on the summit of Beinn Ghlas.

It will be there another day

The wind had now picked up considerably and was bringing in with it a sharp and icy cold mixture of sleet. Visibility had diminished rather quickly I knew I was on the long grassy ridge between the 2 summits and that the walking was fairly level at this point so I pushed on. The drawback to a level and open ridge is that it's vastly exposed to the elements and I was literally battered by wind and sleet. I came upon what I assumed to the start of the next ascent and the final climb to the summit of Ben Lawers. Looking up I could see no more than 20 or 30 foot of the route ahead and looking down the black rock was slick with ice.

I stood hunched against the elements for a few minutes, grappling with my decision and facing up to the inevitable. I about turned and headed for home.

A few weeks prior my achievement in reaching the summit Ben Vorlich was tinged with a perverse sense of regret. On this occasion I never made the summit but I descended in a great frame of mind. I had climbed hard, added another summit in Beinn Ghlass, battled the elements (to a point) and realised it's a fight I will never win. I came down that hill full of spirit and resolve and importantly, came down in one piece. The hills would go on teaching me lessons it seems.